Vinyl Plank for a Whole House: Room by Room Worksheet

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A whole house is not eight separate flooring jobs

Most people estimate a whole-house vinyl plank job by pricing each room, adding 10 percent to each one, rounding each one up to whole cartons, and adding it all up. That method buys four or five boxes you do not need, and it still leaves you short in the hallway, because it ignores the two things that actually govern a whole-house install: the floor runs in one continuous direction, and offcuts from one room feed the next.

The reason we pool the whole house into one order rather than buying room by room is that the offcuts move between rooms. A plank cut to finish the hallway starts the bedroom on the other side of the doorway, provided you are running the same direction and you kept the piece. Buy in room-sized lots and every one of those offcuts becomes scrap, which is how a nine percent job quietly turns into fourteen.

This is a worksheet, not a rule of thumb. Fill in your own numbers as you go.

Step 1: measure every space, including the ones nobody measures

Closets, the strip inside each doorway, the pantry, the space behind a swinging door. A doorway between two rooms is roughly 3 ft wide by 5 to 6 in of jamb depth. It looks like nothing. Seven of them is 11 sq ft, which is half a carton.

SpaceDimensionsArea (sq ft)Running total
Living room18 x 14252252
Kitchen and dining16 x 13208460
Hallway20 x 3.570530
Bedroom 113 x 12156686
Bedroom 211 x 11121807
Bedroom 311 x 10110917
Three closets3 at 6 x 2.545962
Doorway thresholds7 at 3 x 0.511973

Step 2: pool the waste instead of stacking it

Here is the formula that separates a whole-house takeoff from a room takeoff:

Cartons = round up ( total of all areas x (1 + waste) / coverage per carton ), rounded up once, at the end

Once, at the end. Not once per room. Our total is 973 sq ft, waste factor 10 percent for a house with this many separate spaces and doorways, cartons at 24.0 sq ft.

973 x 1.10 = 1070.3 sq ft. Divided by 24.0 = 44.6. 45 cartons.

Now do it the other way, room by room, rounding each one up:

SpaceArea + 10%Divided by 24Cartons if rounded per room
Living room277.211.5512
Kitchen and dining228.89.5310
Hallway77.03.214
Bedroom 1171.67.158
Bedroom 2133.15.556
Bedroom 3121.05.046
Closets49.52.063
Thresholds12.10.501
Total50

Fifty against forty-five. Every one of those eight roundups threw away most of a carton. Pooling recovers four of them, and we would spend one of those savings on a spare carton stored flat in the garage, matched to the same run number, for the day somebody drops a cast iron pan.

Step 3: pick one direction and hold it

Pooling only works if the offcuts are actually reusable, and that depends on running the whole floor in one direction. Pick it before the first plank goes down. In most houses the direction that reads best is parallel to the longest wall or running away from the main window, but the practical driver is the hallway. The hall is the spine. Whatever direction the hall runs, every room off it inherits, or you end up with a T-molding at every bedroom door.

Running continuous also means the offcut you cut at the end of a row in Bedroom 2 starts the next row in Bedroom 2, and the last odd piece goes in the bin by the saw for the closets and thresholds. Closets and doorways are where short pieces go to be useful. If you plan for that, the pooled 10 percent is realistic. If you cut every room from fresh planks, it is not.

Step 4: transitions and the run-length limit

You cannot always run forever. Many rigid core and click LVP products publish a maximum continuous run before an expansion break is required, commonly somewhere in the 30 to 40 ft range in either direction, and some are shorter. In a house 40 ft long, that decides where a T-molding lands whether you like it or not. Check the specific product’s instructions rather than assuming, because the limits vary a lot between product families.

  • Every doorway you break needs a T-molding, and the track has to be fastened to the subfloor, not to the flooring.
  • Every vertical obstruction gets the expansion gap: jambs, cabinet toe kicks, pipe collars, hearths, tub aprons. A floating floor that touches something solid anywhere will peak or gap somewhere else.
  • Perimeter gap is commonly 1/4 to 3/8 in. It has to be there behind the baseboard, and shoe molding nails into the baseboard, never down through the plank.

Step 5: check the subfloor before you order

Two items change the order and both are worth settling first. On a concrete slab, many LVP manufacturers require a vapor retarder or a specific moisture test result before the floor goes down, and the requirement is often different for on-grade versus below-grade. Over radiant heat, most products publish a maximum surface temperature and some are not approved at all. Both of these are product-specific and often tied to local code, so read the installation sheet and call your building department rather than trusting a general rule.

Also let the cartons sit in the house first. Vinyl plank moves with temperature more than with humidity, and many manufacturers ask for 48 hours in the conditioned space, stacked flat, before installation.

Related guides

Sources and Further Reading

Run your own numbers with the Flooring Calculator, or browse every tool on the calculators index. Coverage figures and material constants are cross-checked against manufacturer technical data sheets before publication. See our Methodology page for how figures are selected and verified.

Planning estimate only. Results assume standard conditions and are intended for material planning. Verify against your product’s technical data sheet and your local building code before purchasing. Structural, electrical, and gas work should be specified by a licensed professional.

Last updated: August 23, 2026

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